Lasting machine



July 5, 1927.

F. N. LA CHAPELLE LASTING MACHINE Original Filed March 28, 1919 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 1,634,503 F. N. LA CHAPELLE LASTINCY MACHINE July 5 1927.

Original Filed March 28, 1919 (s eets-sheet 2 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Original F iled March 28, 1919 rm Pb July 5,1927. 1,634,503

F. N. LA CHAPELLE LASTING MACHINE Original Filed March 28. 1919 4 Sheets-Sheet "4 .WVENTGH- Patented July 5, 1927.

UNITED STATES PATENT or -"lcu. y

FRED N. LA. CHAPELLE, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY. i i

LASTING MACHINE.

' Original application filed March as, 1919, Serial No. 285,804. Divided and this application filed April 20, 1925. Serial No. 24,400.

This invention relates to lasting machines. lVhile in its broader aspects the invention is not limited to use with any particular type of lasting machine, for the purpose of illustration it is herein shown and will in lasted position. To insure that the gripper shall be able properly to seize the upper and to take care of different extents to which the upper is pulled by the yielding pulling mechanism because of varying amounts which the upper maybe stretched, it has been necessary to provide considerably more material in the upper margin.

than is necessary to afford a secure hold for the fastenings, for example, stitches, by which the upper is permanently secured to the innersole. This excess of upper mate-, rial has to be trimmed off after the inseamiug or welting operation upon the shoe and represents a loss which it is an object of this invention to minimize. The machine of the present invention is so organized that a predetermined line on the upper may be brought into a predetermined relation to a predetermined line on the innersole, as distinguished from applying to the upper a predetermined tension, and this is to be recognized as an important feature of the invention. V

The upper of a shoe which is to be lasted by the machine is preferably prepared in accordance with the method disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,570,067, granted January 19, 1926, on my application, of which this application is a division, that is, by cutting the upper with special reference to the last over which it is'to be lasted, so that the edge of 'the upper along the edge face of the innersole or, in a welt the last in a line all points inwhich are substantially equi-distant from the edge of the last bottom and consequently from the edge of the innersole and from the innersole rib which are, of course, substantially parallel to each other. The edge of such an upper may then be carried from its untensioned position up over theshoe bottom into predetermined relation to a definite line on the innersole, for instance, the top of the innersole rib. In so doing, all portions of the upper will be pulled through substantially the same distance and hence approximately the same amount of stretch will be removed from'them. In, the operation of the illustrated machine, the upper is seized and pulled to bring its edge or margin into predetermined position with respect to the innersole, for example, the innersole rib, and is then secured to the innersole or to the innersole rib, for example,"by stitches.

It is therefore unnecessary to provide any substantial excess of upper material to be trimmed off after the upper is secured to the innersole by the usual inseaming or welting operation.

In order to facilitate bringing the margin of the upper. into a predetermined relation to the innersole,. the upper may, as herein shown, advantageously beprovided with a bead such as is disclosed in the United States Letters Patent above referred to, the illustrated gripper being so constructed and arranged that it will seize the upper beneath such ahead, and by a predetermined movement tension. the upper, the gripper slipping on the upper until it engages the bead and then carrying the bead to a predetermined position with respect to the innersole.

Another feature of the invention "consists in novel means for tensioning the lining of sioned. To effect this the jaw of the gripper which engages the lining is provided with teeth which grip and hold the lining when the upper before the upper leather is tenmoved in a direction to tension the upper and the co-operating jaw has a lip which slips upon the upper leather after it has engaged the same until tie lip reaches the bead and thereafter pulls the upper positively.

In the foregoing, reference has been made particularly to the lasting of an upper at the sides of the toe and to the securing of the upper in lasted position by stitches. While the invention contemplates such use of the machine for lasting alone first on one side of the shoe and then on the other and numerous advantages attend such use, provision is also made for attaching a elt on the first side of the shoe by the same stitches used to secure the upper to the rib and for carrying on the welting operati around the toe of the shoe, the lasting and welting operations being then performed along the second side of the shoe. In this operation the toe portion of the shoe, which it is di cult to last by the gripper, has been preferably previously lasted on a bed machine or has been molded to fit the toe of the last by proper formation of the margnal portion to fit the feather and rib of the innersole. In welting a shoe toe thus lasted or molded, the use of the gripper is unnecessary. ingly, another feature of the invention consists in means for moving the gripper out of the way during the welt'ng of the toe and for repositioning the gripper for use on the second side of the shoe after the toe has been welted. Preferably the construction such that the operating connections between the gripper and its cams are not disturbed. The gripper, therefore, continues to operate but is so located that it cannot seize the upper.

These and other features of the invention will appear more fully from the f liowing description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation o a machine embodying this invention ann adapted for use in the practice of my method;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine;

Fig. 3 illustrates a last and innersole from which certain measurements are taken in ac cordance with my method;

Fig. at illustrates a shoe upper prepared in accordance with my method;

F ig. 5 is an elevation, partly in section, of a machine in the act of initiating the lasting operation;

Fig. 6 is a detail illustrating a modification of parts shown in Fig. 5; and

Fig. 7 is an elevation of the machine with 'thegripper in an inoperative position and illustrating the application of a welt to the toe portion of the shoe.

To insure economy of upper leather in the i-accord manufacture of shoes, it is important that the upper be designed and cut with special reference to the part of the last over which it is to be lasted. In the completed shoe, if properly made, the upper edge of the vamp in a low shoe and the seam joining the top and vamp in a high shoe, will lie along a a line located definitely with reference to the edge of the last bottom and with reference to line uniformly spaced from the edge of the innersole, for instance the innersole rib. Shoe uppers are usually out without definite refer ence to the width which the vamp should have in the completed shoe, ample material being provided along the sides of the shank to enable the lasting gripper to seize the marginal portion for applying thereto a predetermined tension to lay the upper against the last bottom where it is secured temporarily by tacks. After the inseaming and welting operations, the excess of material, which is considerable and is necessitated by the usual form of gripper andinethod of tensioning the upper, is trimmed off and represents a very considerable loss of uppermaterial.

In preparing the upper, the width of the vamp or the upper is designed with reference to its last so that when the margin or seam of the vamp lies along the side of the last in the proper relation for a given shoe design, the vamp will be of the proper width so that when its edge is brought to a line where it is to be secured, for instance to the rib of the innersole, the proper tension will have been applied to the upper. Conveniently, various measurements may be taken from the last, preferably with an innersole thereon, from an actual or imaginary line where the vamp seam should be located relatively to the last, to the innersole rib in directions substantially perpendicular to the said line and then these measurements may be used in preparing the pattern for the vamp. In Fig. 3 is shown a last with an innersole attached thereto and the lines a, b and 0 represent examples of the measurements above referred to. The pattern will be prepared by using these measurements to indicate the width of the vamp and the upper cut from the pat-- tern which will appear as in Fig. 4, the vamp having the dimensions a, Z) and c which correspond to the dimensions a, Z) and 0 taken from the last. Of course, in prepar ing patterns allowance will be made for the amount the material is to be stretched and this amount may be varied at different points if desired, the essential consideration in this step being that the edge of the prepared upper shall bear a predetermined relation to a fixed line on the innersole, for example, the innersole rib.

Ifdesired, measurements may be taken on both sides of the last in designing a pattern, and the pattern reversed in cutting the up pers so thatuppers for right and leftlasts will be produced. This is desirable where the last has a decided undercut on the inner side of the shank, thus requiring inore material to reach the innersole rib on this side of the shoe than on the, other.

After cutting theiupper as described, a bead d is formed on the margin of the upper adjacent to its edge, preferably as near as possible to the edge. This bead may be conveniently formed by sewing a cord to the upper closely adjacent to its edge. The upper is next molded at the toe and, if desired, at the heel to the shape of the toe and heel ends ofthe last and formed at the toe with an inturned portion to cover the feather of the insole and an upstanding flange to be secured. to the rib. Alternatively the upper may be placed upon its last and lasted at the toe and also, if desired, at the heel, for eX- ample, on a bed machine. In this case the upper at the toe is temporarily secured in place in the usual manner by a binding wire when an upper prepared as explained is placed upon its last, the bead cl will lie along the sideof the shoe at a predetermined short distance from the edge 9 of the innersole and hence also from the rib h. The distance from the innersole rib to the bead will be de termined by the amount which the upper should be tensioned in lasting and the extensibility of the upper materials employed. For the operation of side lasting the upper before welting, the shoe is presented to the machine as shown in Fig. 5, being positioned by a shoe rest 2 which is operated similarly to the usual channel guide of a sewing machine. The rest lies in the channel back of the rib or against the rear face of the rib if a Gem innersole is used. The rest is preferably provided with a feed point and is actuated in the usual manner to effect feeding of the shoe to the sewing mechanism. The rest 2 positions the shoe for the action of a gripper comprising co-operating jaws 4t and 6, the jaw 6 being, as shown, movable relatively to the aw 4. The jaw closing mechanism may, as shown, be similar to that disclosed and claimed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,005,234, granted October 10, 1911, on application of Ladd and Stiggins, and need not be herein specifically described, it being understood that mechanism is provided, as will hereinafter appear, for moving the rod 8 downwardly relatively to a member 10 carrying the jaw 4: to effect the closing of the jaw 6 toward the jaw 4 to grip the stock, as shown in Fig. 5. The aw t is prov1ded with teeth to engage the lining of the upper and the jaw 6 is provided with a lip 12. In Fig. 5 it will be seen that when the jaws have closed, the lip 12 is below the bead (Z of the upper. The gripper 4:, 6 and shoe are next moved relatively in a direction perpendicular to the last bottom with the result shown in Fig. 1.' The teeth of the jaw 4, being unable to slip on the lining, have tensioned it relatively to the upper leather on which the bead (Z is formed, while the aw 6 has slipped over the upperuntil it has engaged the bead (Z and has tensioned the up- The construction of the gripper closing cam is such that after the lip 12 has engaged the rib the gripper closing pressure is increased to prevent any possibility of the bead slip-. ping from between the jaws.

It is now necessary to move relatively the shoe and gripper to cause the upper to be 7 brought into proper relation to theinnersole rib. In the construction shown, an overdraw movement of the gripper is efiected also by a positively acting cam, as will be described. The innersole rib and upper margin are thus brought into the position shown in Fig. 1 where the gripper is located directly over the rib of the innersole and the bead cl just above the rib the upper bridging the angle between the rib and the feather of the innersole. The portion of the upper thus positioned is next secured by sewing mechanism including a needle 32 which is actuated to pass through the upper and be tween-substance or rib, the sewing mechanism acting to form a chain stitch the chain of which lies in the channel of the innersole or on the inner side of the innersole rib. The tightening of the stitch draws the upper into the angle between the rib of the innersole and the feather. After the needle enters the work the gripper is released from the upper and the shoe and gripper move as described, to seize, updraw and overdraw' successive portions of the upper. Since the gripper is pos1tively actuated, it has no tendency to jump away from the work when its grip thereon is relieved as is the case with a yreldmgly operated gripper, and hence it is possible for the upper to remain continuously between the gripper jaws. Preferably the organization is such that at only one point in the cycle does the gripper open sufficiently to allow the bead to pass in or out, of the jaws. This point is shown in Fig. 5. The machine ispreferably provided with a suitable stop mechanism to cause the marelatively toenable the gripper to treat anthe shoe may be lasted and secured in a similar manner. The shoe is now ready for the welting operation by which a welt is secured to the upper and innersole rib continuously from a oint in front of the heelseat along the side of the shoe around the lasted toe and along the other side of the shoe to the heel-s at.

In order to av a separate welting operation upon the shoe, i contemplated to provite the machine 1.11 a welt guide, shown in Fig. 7, and to sew a welt 7a to the upper and innersole in conjunction with the lasting operation described. In this case, since the up ier already lasted at the toe, the gripper cannot be used there. Accordingly, af'er the welt has been secured along one side of the shoe in conjunction with the lasting operation, the gilPPOl. is moved out of operative relation the upper and the welting operation carried on about the toe of the shoe, the pper being then moved back into operat. c posi...n to effect the lasting of the second side of the shoe in conjunction with the welting o1 oration upon that side.

The mechanism 1" c'llecling the described operations of the gripper and sewimechanism will now be more particularly explained. The sewing mechan sm may he of any usual or convenient construction and as shown herein is substantially similar to that of the well-known welt and turn sewing inachine disclosed, for example, in. United States Letters latent No. 412,70 granted October 8, 1889, on application of French and lrleyer. It has been und possible, however, to simplify the sewing mechanism by dispensing with the awl, so-called, which, in the construction of the patent referred to, comprises a prick point operated to engage the work in the channel and to move transversely of the machine to feed the work. In the construction shown herein the work rest 2 is provided with a feed point to engage in the channel or behind the rib of the innersole and is operated toward and from the rib about a pivot 20 on a transverse slide 22 by an edge cam (F 1 and on a cam shaft 25, the slide being moved to feed the work by a lever 24 having a fulcrum at 26, a connection to the slide 22 at 28 and operated by a suitable path cam engaging a roll 30 (Fig. 1).

The stitch forming mechanism which is of usual construction, comprises the curved hooked needle 32 mounted in a needle carrier pivoted at 38 and operated by connections to a. lever 34 operated by a suitable cam on the shaft 25. The thread passes through a looper on a lever 36 which is operated by the usual cams to lay the thread in the hook of the needle 32. A thread holder 37 which measures off the thread for the stitch is operated as usual by a cam acting in a level 38 shown as broken away in Fig. 2.

The gripper operating mechanism is best shown in Figs. 2 and 5. In Fig. 2, 40 is the cam operated arm of a gripper closing lever and and the camoperated arms of the updraw and overdraw levers respectively, being the rea-rwardly extending arm of an overdraw lever proper which is connected to the arm 60, as will later appear. These parts are all fulcrumed on a shaft eX- tending parallel with the main cam shaft 25-. The arms 40, 50 and 60 are all of equal length and cam resoectivel cam rolls 41. c 3 1 a 51 and 61 which engage cam paths in cam blocks 90 and 91 on the shaft 25, the cam paths being designed to effect the desired operation of the gripper as set forth. The forwardly extending arm42' of the gripper closing lever is formed at its end, as shown in section in Fig. 5, with a socket into which is threaded a sleeve 43. A plunger 9 extends through the lower end of the socket and through the upper end of the sleeve 43, its downward movement being limited by a flange 44. Between the flange 44 and the upper end of the sleeve is a relatively strong spring 45 through which downward pressure is imparted to the rod 8 by operation of the lever 40, 42 to efi'ect a yielding closing of the aw 6 against the jaw 4. The sleeve 43 may be turned to vary the tension of the spring 45 and hence the closing pressure of the gripper. connected by links 46 to the member 10 and by a link 47 to the rod 8, the upper portio of the member 6 being operated by a cam 48 to close the jaws as the jaw member 6 is moved downwardly and the gripper being opened by a light spring 49.

The forward arm 52 of the updraw lever is pivoted at 53 to the member 10 throughwhich it imparts a positive up and down bodily movement of predetermined extent to the gripper. To balance the updraw pull the arm 52 is connected by a rigid web 54 to a link 56 also pivoted to the shaft 80 and to the member 10 on the opposite side from the arm 52. This construction will be clear from Fig. 2. I

The overdraw mechanism comprises the arm 60 mounted on the shaft 80 and actuated by a cam acting on the roll 61 and the angle lever comprising arms 70, 71 (Fig. 2) also pivoted on the shaft 80, as above stated. The arm 71 is connected to the gripper member 10 by links 7 2 which are-preferably con The gripper jaw member 6 is lots cams and eifects an" upward and outward nected a s shown: .in

dotted lines in Fig. 2, the rigidity and 'posiis a boss 74 (Figs. 5 and 6) on which rests a sleeve 7 5. A rod- 76- pivote'dto the arm 60 at 62 passes up through the boss T l and sleeve 75 and above the-sleeve carries washer 77 and a. thumb nut 78 threaded on the rod. On the arm 60 is a lug 6% which g I stance of the innersole-together. After the is engaged by a screw 66 threaded through an ear 67 formed on the hub of the-angle lever 70, 71 and offset to overlie the arm 60 (Fig. 2). When the thumb nut 78 andjthe screw 66 are set up the arms 60 and 70- act as one and constitute the operating means by which the arm 71 is caused to efie'c t the overdraw movement of the gripper. By adjusting both the nut 78 and the screw '66 the relation of the cam arm 60 to the gripper operating arm' 71 maybe varied toadjust the position of the limits of overdraw movement of the gripper while still-maintaining'the positive operation of the overdraw. By substituting for the 'sleever'5a spring 7 9, as shown in Fig. 6, the overdraw movement -of the gripper may be rendered yielding as may be desirable for some uses combinat on of securing means, means for of the machine the screw 66bein then mm ployedfor ad usting the initial position of the gripper for its updraw and overdraw movement, the overdraw tension being effecte-d through the'spring 79 the tension of which may be varied'by turningthe nut 78.

The construction by which the gripper may be moved out of operative position *will now be explained. Thesh'aft 8O (l ig. 2) has its ends mounted in arms 82 and 84, respectively. The other ends of the arms 82 and 84: are'secured respectively to shafts 86 and 88 mounted one in each end portion 92 i of the frame. The shaft S8has fixed thereto an arm 94 having its end pivot-ally connected to apush rod .96 which extends down to a suitable treadle' (not shown); When the rod 96 is pushed up by the treadle the parts will assume the position shown in Fig.

7 and tlie= gripperwill -be moved out of operative relation to the shoe upper. The

upward push of the rod 96 lifts the arm 94- which, acting throughthe shaft '88'and the arm 84', will lift the shaft'80 bodily, carrying with it'all-the gripper operating levers."

This causes the cam-rolls 4'1, 51 and 6l to move forward in their ca m paths without disturbing their operative relation to the movement of the gripper 'jaws by bodily movement of the gripp-er, By downward vmovement of 'the'rod96 the gripper isrestored to operative position, a stop 98 beingv provided on the frame 92' to limit such movement ofthe ar m 94;.

' InFig. is shownthe toe of a shoeihaving theupperlasted and held by a toe binding wire-7 and the machi'ne'oper'ating thereon to sew awelt about the toe, it being understood, of course, that the first side of the shoe has already been lasted and weltedby welt has been secured about the toe portion the frod 96 is moved downwardly to restore the-gripper to operative position and the and welting is-continuedalong the second side ofthe shoe to the heel-seat.

- Ha v ingithus described my invention, what .11 claim as'new'and desire to secure by LettersPatent of the United-States is:

1 ."In' a machine of the class described, the combination of securing means, means for working successive portions of an upper over 'a'last'bottomflinto position to be secured *progressively by. the securing means, and means for moving the over-working means bodily out of operative relation to the secur ing means *1 2. In a machine of the class described, the

working an upper over a last bottom into position to be secured by the securing means, and means. for moving the overworking means out of operative relation to the securing means without affecting the continuity of ;movement of the over-working means. p r i Y I 3'.In.a machine of the class described, the

combination ofineans for working successive portionsof an upper over a last bottom =111t0-POS11310I1 to be secured, means for progressively securing the upper in overworked POSllllOIl, and means for moving the over-working means bodily out of operative relation to the. shoe while the securing means remains in continuous operation.

In a niachineof the class described, the combination 0fsecuring mechan sm, a grip per fol-working successive portions of an upper .over the bottom of a last into position to be secured, and operating connections for effecting-continuous operat on of the gripper, .said connections being arranged to per nut movement of the gripper relatively to the securing :mechainismrfrom an operative 'position to an inoperative position while maintaining the operating-connections in operative relation.

5. Inamachine of the classdescribed, the combinationofsewing means, and means for wvorlring an upper inwardly over a last bottom into position to be sewed by the sewing means, SZLl-d OVG1 WOlklIlg means being constructed and arranged for movement relative'ly. to. the-sewing means to permit the over-working means to occupy an inoperative position while the sewing means continues in ope ation.

6. In a machine of the class described, the combination with sewing mechanism, :of means for working an upper over the bottom of a last into position to :be sewed by the sewing mechanism, said parts being arranged for such relative .movcment :as to permit the over-working means to occupy an operative or inoperative position relative to said mechanism.

7.. In a machine of the class described, the

combination of sewing means, .and a gripper for tensioning successive portions of an upper over the ,bottom of a last into position to be sewed by the sewing means, said grip- ;per being constructed and arranged for movement relatively to the sewing means to permit the gripper to occupy an inoperative position while the sewing means continues in operation.

8. In a machine of the class described, the combination of sewing means, mea-n-s for working an upper over the bottom of a last into position to :be sewed by the sewing means, and means for effecting movement of the over-working means out of operative relation :to the sewing means to permit the sewing means to be used alone.

9. a machine of the class described, the combination of sewing means, an upper tensioning gripper for working an upper over the bottom of a last into position to sewed by the sewing means, and means for effecting bodily movement of the gripper out of operative relation to the sewing means to permit the sewing means to be used alone.

10. In :a machine of the class described, the combination of sewing mechanism, a gripper for working successive portions of an upper over the bottom of 'allast into position to be sewed, operating connections for effecting continuous operation of the gripper, said connections being arranged to per- :mit movement ott the gripper from an open ative position to an inoperative position where it fails to reach the :upper.

11. In :a .step-by-step ilasting machine adapted for lasting an upper having a bead adjacent to its edge, the combination of a gripper having a lip to engage the head on :the upper, means for operating :the gripper to last the upper, and means for securing the upper in lasted position.

12. In :a step-by-step lasting machine adapted for lasting an upper having a bead adjacent to its edge, the combination of a gripper having alip to engage the head on the upper, means for imparting to the grip per positive movements to last the upper, and means for securing the upper in lasted .position.

1 3. In a step-by-step lasting machine adapted for lasting an upper having a bead zadg acent to its edge, the combination voi' a gripper having a lip to engage the bead on the upper, means for imparting positive updraw and overdraw movements to the gripper to last the upper, and means for securing the upper in lasted position.

14. Ina machine of theclass-described. the combination of a gripper, cams for effecting closing, updraw and overdraw movements-of the gripper, and means constructed and arranged to cause movement of the gripper rout of operative relation to the work without disturbing the operative relation of the gripper to the cams. I

15. a machine of the classdescribed, the combination ofa gripper, cams tor effecting closing,- updra-w and overdra-w movements of the gripper, and means under control. of the operator constructed and arranged to effect movement of the gripper out of \operatti-ve relation to the work without disturbing the operative relation of the gripper to t e .cams.

16. .In a machine of the class described,the combination of a gripper, means tor operating the gripper to work 32111 upper over the bottom of its last, and means for moving the gripper out of operative position while maintaining the operative relation between the gripper and its operating means.

17. In a machine of the class described, the combination of :a gripper, means comprising closing, updraw and .overdraw levers for operating the gripper to work .an upper over its last, and means for moving the tulcra of the :levers to cause movement of the gripper out of operative position.

18,. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a gripper, closing, updraw and overdraw levers for operating the gripper to work an upper over its last, a shat-ton which said levers are mounted, and means for moving the shaft bodily to cause movement of the gripper out of operative position while maintaining the operative .re- .lati-on between the gripper and its operating levers.

19. In a lasting machine, an upper tensioning gripper, a channel guide, means for effecting positive updraw and overdraw movements of the gripper to present the portion of the upper held by the gripper .in predetermined relation to "the channel guide, and means for securing the upper progressively to the sole.

20. In a lasting machine, the upper tensioning gripper, means for effecting positive updraw and overdraw movements of the gripper to present the portion of the upper held by the gripper in predetermined rela- 'tion to a predetermined line upon the innersole, and means for securing the uppe progressively along said line.

21. In .a 'la-stinilg, machine, :an .uppertensioning gripper, means for efiecting positive updraw and 'overdraw movements of the gripper to present the portion of the upper held by the gripper in predetermined relation to the rib of an innersole, and means for securing the upper progressively to said rib.

22. In a step-by-step lasting machine adapted for-lasting an upper and lining,the

combination of a gripper having one jaw formed to engage and slip on'the upper and the other jaw formed to engage the lining positively, means to operate the gripper to cause the jaws to engage the upper and to impart an updraw movement to the gripper to e'fiect first a tensionlng of the lining,

one jaw formed with a lip to engage the bead on the upper leather and the other jaw toothed to engage the lining positively, means to operate the gripperto cause the jaws to engage the upper below the bead and to impart an updraw movement to the gripper to eii'ect first a tensioning of the lining and, when the lip reaches the bead, to effect a pull on the upper, means for causing the gripper to' overlay the tensioned upper upon the shoe bottom, and means for securing the upper to the sole. v

24. In a step-by-step lasting machine adapted for lasting an upper and lining cut to fit the last and having a bead on the upper leather in predetermined relation to its edge, the combination of a gripper having one jaw formed with a lip to engage the bead on the upper and the other jaw toothed to engage the lining positively, means to operate the gripper, to cause the jaws to engage the upper below the bead and to impart a predetermined updraw movement to the gripper to effect first a tensioning of the lining and when the lip reaches the bead to effect a positive pull on the upper, means for overlaying the tension-ed upper upon the shoe bottom, and means for securing the upper to the sole.

In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for'lasting and welting a shoe including an upper tensioning gripper, and means under, control of the operator for rendering the gripper inoperative while weiting the toe and rendering the gripper operative while lasting and welting the side of the shoe.

26. In machine of the class described,

the combination of means for lasting and welting one side of a shoe including an upper tensioning gripper, means for render. the gripper inoperative while welt-v mg the toe, said means being operable to render the gripper again operative to enable the lasting .and welting operation to be carried on along the second side of the shoe. 7 I

27. In a machine oi' the class described, the combination of means for lasting and welting a shoe having its toe already lasted including an upper tensioning gripper, and means for movingvthe gripper out of operativeposition while weltin'g the toe, said means being operable to restore the gripper to operative position to enable the lasting and welting operation to be carried on when the second side of the shoe is reached.

28 In a lasting machine, an upper tensioning gripper, means for effecting positive updraw and overdraw movements of the grlpper to present the portion of the upper held by the gripper in predetermined relation to a predetermined line upon the innersole, and

means for securing the upper along said line. In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specificatlon.

FRED N. LA OHAPELLE. 

